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Ciencia Agora

Paper crafts for adults: tutorials, projects and techniques

Paper Craft Techniques

Paper Cutting Techniques: Clean Cuts With Scissors and a Craft Knife

How to cut straight lines, smooth curves and sharp inside corners in paper and card, and how to tell whether scissors or a knife is the right tool.

A craft knife cutting along a metal ruler on a cutting mat
A metal ruler, a sharp blade and several light passes produce the cleanest straight cuts.

Project at a glance

Difficulty Easy
Estimated time About 30 minutes of practice
Recommended paper Printer paper for scissor practice and 65 lb (176 gsm) cardstock for knife practice
Tools Scissors, craft knife with spare blades, metal ruler, self-healing cutting mat, pencil

Materials

  • 2-3 sheets of printer paper
  • 1-2 sheets of cardstock

A clean edge is the first thing the eye notices in a finished piece, and a ragged one is the hardest flaw to disguise afterward. Good paper cutting techniques are not about strength or speed. They come down to a sharp edge, a steady guide and letting the tool do the work in a controlled way. Scissors and a craft knife each have jobs they do best, and knowing which to pick up is half the skill.

Choosing between scissors and a knife

Cut Better tool Why
Long straight lines Knife and metal ruler The ruler guarantees straightness
Outside curves and circles Scissors Smooth, continuous motion
Windows and inside shapes Knife Scissors cannot start in the middle of a sheet
Inside corners Knife Each cut can stop exactly at the corner
Thin or delicate paper Scissors A knife may drag and pucker soft sheets
Thick card and board Knife, several passes Scissors bend and crush the edge

If you do not yet own a knife and mat, the overview of which tools to buy and when explains what to look for.

Cutting with scissors

The common mistake with scissors is steering them like a pen. The cutting hand should stay almost still, opening and closing in front of the body, while the other hand feeds and turns the paper.

  1. Rough-cut first. Trim away most of the surrounding sheet, leaving about 1/2 in (1 cm) around the shape. A small piece is far easier to turn than a full sheet.
  2. Cut deep in the blades. Open the scissors wide and use the middle section, not the tips. The middle gives the most control and the smoothest line.
  3. Use long strokes and do not close fully. Stop each stroke just before the tips meet, then slide forward and continue. Snapping the tips shut leaves a tiny nick at the end of every stroke.
  4. Turn the paper into the blades. On a curve, rotate the paper steadily with the holding hand so the line keeps arriving at the same point between the blades.
  5. Save the tips for tight spots. Use short snips with the tips only where the line turns sharply or ends in a point.
Scissors cutting along a curved line while the paper is turned into the blades
For a smooth curve, hold the scissors steady and rotate the paper into the blades. The arrow shows the direction the paper turns.

For an outward point, such as the tip of a leaf, cut along one side past the point and off into the waste, then cut the second side the same way. For an inward notch, cut into it from each side so the two cuts meet at the bottom, rather than trying to pivot the scissors inside it.

Straight cuts with a knife and ruler

Work on a cutting mat, standing if possible so the arm can move freely along the whole cut.

  1. Mark both ends. Make two small pencil ticks rather than drawing a full line. There is less to erase, and the ruler defines the line anyway.
  2. Cover the piece you are keeping. Lay the metal ruler over the good part of the paper, with the waste exposed. If the blade wanders away from the ruler, it wanders into scrap.
  3. Anchor the ruler. Spread the fingers of the holding hand along the ruler and press down firmly, with every fingertip set back from the cutting edge.
  4. Make a light first pass. Hold the knife like a pencil, at a low angle so the edge of the blade does the cutting rather than the tip alone. Draw it toward you along the ruler with gentle pressure. This pass establishes a groove.
  5. Repeat in the same groove. Make a second and, on heavier card, a third pass. Several light passes cut cleaner and safer than one heavy one.
  6. Test before lifting the ruler. Keep the ruler in place and ease the waste away. If it clings anywhere, cut that spot again while the guide is still aligned.

Watch out

Most knife slips happen when a dull blade is forced. If you notice yourself pressing harder, stop and change the blade. Never cut toward the hand that holds the ruler, and never use a plastic ruler as a knife guide; the blade can ride up over its edge.

Inside corners and small openings

Corners are where knife cuts most often go wrong. Cutting into a corner tempts the blade to travel a fraction too far, leaving an overcut that shows as a small slit in the finished piece.

The remedy is to reverse the direction. Place the blade tip exactly in the corner and cut away from it, toward the middle of the line. Then return to the same corner, turn the paper, and cut outward along the second side. Each line is finished by a stroke coming from the corner at its other end, and the cuts meet in the middle of the side, where joining them is easy.

A craft knife cutting an inside corner, with both cuts starting at the corner and running outward
At an inside corner, start each cut with the blade tip in the corner and draw it outward. Cuts that begin at the corner cannot overshoot it.

When a design has several openings, cut the smallest and most central ones first and the outer outline last. The sheet stays stronger and easier to hold while the delicate work is done. This principle is developed further in the guide to designing and cutting a paper silhouette.

Curves with a knife

Freehand curves take practice. Hold the knife more upright than for straight cuts, so only the tip is in the paper, and move slowly. As with scissors, keep the cutting hand in a comfortable position and rotate the paper under the blade with the other hand. Aim to cut each curve in one continuous motion; stopping and restarting leaves a small angle in the line.

Cutting several layers at once

Folded or stacked paper, as in six-point paper snowflakes, multiplies the thickness at the blades. Use thin paper, limit the number of layers, and hold the stack firmly near the cut so the layers do not shift against one another. With scissors, cut farther back in the blades, where leverage is greatest. With a knife, hold the layers together with small clips placed in the waste area and make more passes rather than adding pressure.

When edges turn out rough

  • Fuzzy or torn edge: the blade is dull. Replace it.
  • Wavy straight cut: the ruler moved, or the knife leaned away from it. Press the ruler down harder and keep the blade upright against its edge.
  • Small nicks along a scissor cut: the tips were closing fully on each stroke.
  • Corners still attached: the cut stopped short. Re-cut from the corner outward instead of pulling the piece free, which tears the fibers.
  • Angular, faceted curve: the scissors moved and the paper did not. Slow down and turn the paper.

Other finishing problems, including warping and cracked folds, are worked through in the guide to fixing common beginner errors. For cutting itself, a few practice lines on scrap before each project are the most reliable warm-up.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my craft knife tear the paper instead of cutting it?

The blade is almost certainly dull, or its tip has broken off. Fit a new blade and use several light passes rather than one heavy one.

Should I cut curves with scissors or a knife?

Outside curves and circles are usually smoother with scissors, turning the paper into the blades. Use a knife for curves inside a sheet, where scissors cannot reach.

How do I avoid overcutting at inside corners?

Start each cut with the blade tip in the corner and draw it outward along the line, instead of cutting toward the corner. A cut that begins at the corner cannot run past it.